DL ENGINE FAQ

Are spare parts available?

We stock spare parts for DL Engines.

Detailed parts diagrams and parts price lists are available in the web store and in the downloads/Manuals section.

Warranty

The manufacturer's warranty is that "the engine will be free of defects at the time of sale".

We provide a 12 month Australian Warranty for manufacturing faults with the engine (Note: We do not disassemble or test run or tune the engines before shipping) 

This Warranty only applies to engines purchased through DL Engines and Hobby Australia or DL Engines Australia authorised re-seller. We cannot cover warranty for engines imported through unauthorised channels. 

Engines purchased from other sellers or importers will not be covered by us for any warranty claims, nor will we act as an agent for a claim to the manufacturer for warranty claims on engines not purchased from DL Engines and Hobby Australia.

Warranty is not transferable from original purchaser.

The engine is not covered by warranty for any issues arising from misuse, poor tuning, wear and tear, crash damage or faulty/poor or inappropriate installation by the end user.  The ignition warranty does not include damage caused by supplying too high an input voltage, vibration damage or use without a spark plug firmly connected.

Warranty is void if the engine is disassembled without authorisation from DL Engines and Hobby Australia .  

Warranty claims must be accompanied by a copy of your original invoice or proof of purchase, and warranty card with Matching Serial numbers. 

Warranty is return to base, and the cost of shipping and insurance back to DL Engines is to be paid for by the purchaser. Insurance on shipping is highly recommended. We cannot be held responsible for items lost in transit sent to DL Engines and Hobby Australia.

DL Engines and Hobby Australia will not accept returns sent freight forward or COD.

Please contact us first regarding any issues before sending engines back to us. We might be able to just ship you the replacement part, depending on the claim.

I have seen DL engines cheaper on EBAY etc, why buy one here?

To start with, we are an authorised DL Engine dealer in Australia. We deal direct with the DLE factory. 

Most Ebay sales of the DLE are drop shipped from China. The seller does not have stock, and pays an agent in China to ship the engine to you without ever seeing the engine themselves. There are also many retailers importing engines from Chinese retailers, these may not be covered by factory warranty and support. You will have to rely on the seller to help you and supply warranty for engines they sell.

We import the engines and keep them in stock ready to ship. 

We include our own English instructions, and provide local support and parts

Check out the DLE website for the list of official distributors  www.dlengine.com



Who makes the ignition?


Ignition is made by RCEXL in china


http://www.rccdi.com/

 


Ignition Battery

 

The latest version DLE ignitions can now handle up to 8.4 volts (2 cell Lipo/Li-ion/A123/Life and 5 cell NiMh) these ignition have the new voltage range printed on them.  If you not sure you have the latest version, please contact us and we can advise you how to check

 

The previous version ignitions can not handle 2 cell lipo etc directly and the following is recomended.

 

4 cell 4.8v 1200mah+ pack recommended.

 

5 Cell 6V packs can be used, but must be regulated between 5.2 and 6.0 volts

 

2 Cell Lithium Ion / Polymer Batteries can also be used. But again the voltage must be regulated.

 

Voltages above 6V will damage version 1.0 ignitions. This is not covered by warranty.

Version 2 ignitions can handle up to 7v maximum input, but be careful a 6v battery hot off charge will be over 7 volts!

 

Really a 4.8v 4 cell pack is all that is required. Higher voltages just cause the ignition to run hotter and consume more current.

 

A freshly charged 5 cell pack will output around 7 volts, and a regulator must be used. The same applies to 2 cell A123 packs

 

Disconnect the battery from the ignition system while charging the battery.

 

The ignition module should be connected to the battery through a heavy duty switch. Standard receiver type switches that come with your radio are not suitable.

 

We recommend a heavy duty switch with a built in charge jack that disconnects the battery from the ignition when the switch in the off position. This also provides a handy connection point to check your battery voltage before flight.

 

We also recommend some sort of electronic kill switch that will stop the engine in the event of receiver signal or battery failure. Pick one that will also you to kill the engine quickly from the transmitter without relying on choke or throttle trip to shut down the engine.

Another option is an ignition battery eliminator. These devices draw power from the main receiver pack for the ignition and also provide a kill switch function. Good quality units provide filtering to prevent any interference coming back from the ignition to the radio system. This will save the weight of an additional battery pack and switch which is particulary useful for smaller models/engine sizes.

 

Spark Plug

 

DLE-20/30/55/111/170/222 use a NGK-CM6 spark plug.

 

Engines purchased through DL Australia are now also being supplied with a genuine NGK plug/s
 

Be careful not over tighten the plug. The engine head/thread is aluminium. If you over do it, you will strip the thread.

 

The recommended torque range is  9.5-10.7 NM (7 to 8 ft-lbs).
 

Running in or Breaking in the Engine in the Air

 

Use petroleum based oil (such as Castrol Active 2T), light loads and light throttle use during the first period of use.
 

You can also use full synthetic oil from the start with DLE engines. Run in time will take longer. (Redline oil is not suitable for run process)

       

You don't want to overheat the engine.

 

Ensure it is adequately cooled, with sufficient air flowing over the cylinder head cooling fins. Proper baffling of the engine is important.

 

Full power climbs, and hovers etc are not recommended during the run-in process.

 

Correct (not excessively rich) fuel air mixtures and correct fuel to oil ratios help here.Learn to tune the engine or get help from
someone that is experienced with tuning petrol walbro type carb engines

 

The additional oil in the fuel mix provides the extra lubrication required during the break-in. You do not run the engine mixture rich like you would with a glow engine for break-in.

 

Tuning the engine properly takes time and patience and will make a big difference in how your engine runs. You will need to retune several times as it is being run in. And also if you change your fuel/oil mix or even type of oil being used. Different brand oils burn at different rates and will affect power/tune

 

What Oil should I use?

 

Some examples of 2 stroke oils available suitable for running in include Castrol 2T, Castrol Active 2T, Mobil Extra 2T, Shell Advance 2T / Advance SX2, Penzoil Air Cooled 2 Stroke.

 

Synthetic oils suitable for use after run-in include Castrol TTS (30~40:1), Belray HR1 (30~40:1), Mobil Racing 2T (30~40:1), Red-Line 2 Stroke Racing Oil (30~40:1) Stihl Ultra HP (30~40:1) , Shell Advanced Ultra 2 (30~40:1) Coolpower (30:1) Klotz (30:1)
 

There are many types available that are suitable, always use a good quality brand name oil, both for run in and normal running.

 

Motorcycle shops are a good source for quality oils. Remember your engine will spend most of time somewhere between 2000 - 5000rpm so castor based motorcycle/go cart racing oils designed for very high rpm should not be used.

 

Never mix different brands of oils together. Put measured qty of oil into container, then add fuel to ensure it is well mixed. Measure carefully and accurately in a clean environment, and use clean containers. Install a fuel filter inline on your fuel can/pump, clean fresh fuel is important!

 

High octane petrol is not required or recommended.  In Australia 89 ~ 95 max octane is all that is needed

The DLE factory recommend an oil ratio of 30:1

How much oil do I mix for what ratio?

32:1 is 31ml of oil per litre of petrol/gasoline
40:1 is 25ml of oil per litre of petrol/gasoline (Only run 40:1 with good quality synthetic oil and correct tuning and cooling)


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